My Dream Place – The Second Day of the Trip: Discover an unsettling experience in Victoria Island through this detailed narrative that takes you to the enchanting Arrayanes Forest in Bariloche. Immerse yourself in the rich history, unique flora and fauna, and breathtaking landscapes of this dream destination. Join the author on a journey that promises both wonder and introspection, perfect for travel enthusiasts seeking inspiration and those captivated by the serene yet dramatic beauty of Patagonia.
This story continues from: My Dream Place Among Forests, Lakes, and Mountains
The second day of the trip we woke up early with great expectations for what we had planned after a restful night’s sleep. We were ready to enjoy a delicious breakfast with a beautiful view of Lake Nahuel Huapi. I usually go for the classic choice: croissants with coffee and milk, to avoid risking other tempting options that I’m not used to for breakfast and might cause complications during the day of excursions, especially if there’s no bathroom available when needed quickly. Often, hotels offer breakfast options preferred by foreign tourists, mostly North Americans or Europeans, such as bacon with fried eggs, pancakes, cold cuts and cheeses, yogurt, etc.
That day, we had planned to take a tour first to the Arrayanes Forest and then to Victoria Island. We chose the full-day tour, but there’s also a half-day option, and it’s interesting to know that it’s available all year round. Our itinerary was as follows: first, we would sail to Puerto Quetrihué on the peninsula of the same name, within Los Arrayanes National Park, to walk on stepped trails and observe magnificent specimens of this species that form a dense forest with unique characteristics. The Arrayanes Forest is notable for being the last natural forest of this species in the world. After exploring this dreamy forest, we would board the boat again for Puerto Anchorena on Victoria Island to visit the largest island in Lake Nahuel Huapi, a natural treasure for its flora and fauna, both native and exotic. There, we would visit the conifer nursery and other species, natural viewpoints, and various trails that showcase the incredible beauty of the place.
So once we finished breakfast, we took a bus to Puerto Pañuelo, about 25 km from the city center, where there is a beautiful peninsula with the Llao Llao hotel in the background. A half-hour navigation awaited us to reach the Quetrihue peninsula, located in the northeast of Lake Nahuel Huapi, where the legendary Arrayanes Forest is located. However, we couldn’t have known what awaited us; we were about to witness an unsettling experience that would leave us with a sad memory and in shock for the rest of the day.
Puerto Pañuelo and Options for the Excursion
Upon arriving at Puerto Pañuelo, where the boarding takes place, we took some photos. My dad posed with some friendly dogs that came to greet us, and we admired the beauty of the place with the majestic Llao Llao Hotel in the background and its wide golf course on the shore, a dreamlike landscape reminiscent of the typical group photo of any graduation trip.
We were greeted by some friendly dogs who decided to join the photo
At the port facilities, you pay the entrance fee to the National Parks and board according to the contracted company and chosen service. Two companies offer the excursion: Turisur (Modesta Victoria Boat) and Espacio S.A (Cau Cau Catamaran). Essentially, the difference lies in the chosen vessel, as they have the same rate, schedule, and route. The “Cau Cau” is a more modern catamaran that also offers a VIP area with more comfort and catering service at no additional charge during each navigation leg. This service includes beverages, coffee, tea, snacks, sweets, and canapés. The “Modesta Victoria” is an older boat but fully remodeled, with a vintage style.
Before departing, we were awaited by some seagulls who seemed reluctant to say goodbye to all the passengers ready to embark on one of the most popular excursions in San Carlos de Bariloche. In fact, some seagulls decided to accompany the boat, knowing they would receive some Criollitas cookies as a reward for their daily task: posing for photos while eating from a tourist’s hand willing to risk losing a finger… haha, I’m exaggerating; they are actually very gentle seagulls accustomed to this daily routine. There’s also a professional photography team ready to capture the moment for a modest additional fee.
Some seagulls decide to join us on the adventure
It’s worth noting that the crew navigating Lake Nahuel Huapi has been doing so for many years, allowing them to have solid experience given the characteristics of the trip, as it involves a lake surrounded by mountains. The staff is highly qualified, composed of graduates from the Merchant Marine with extensive knowledge of the equipment. However, unforeseen events can always occur, as was about to happen to us.
During the time on board and during the walks in the Arrayanes Forest and on Victoria Island, we were accompanied by several tour guides, ready to explain everything in detail, answering visitors’ questions in Spanish, English, or Portuguese. After taking photos with the seagulls and enjoying a snack, I sat down to enjoy the half-hour journey to our destination.
We are Visited by Many International Tourists
There were passengers from various countries, easily identifiable by their different attire and languages. Another characteristic that identifies some international tourists is what I would call the safari-style clothing, a sophisticated but very eye-catching style, as if they had traveled to the African jungle instead of Patagonia. Some wear riding boots, Texan-style hats, fishing vests, colorful jackets, silk scarves around the neck, and sunglasses. I want to clarify that this is not a criticism at all but rather a description of certain striking characteristics. Similarly, any of us would likely stand out when visiting their countries. I could identify groups of Brazilians, who are loud and always cheerful, and also noticed groups of Colombian tourists who often visit us. It was a calm navigation moment; my parents chatted with other passengers to find out where they came from, where they were staying, what other excursions they could recommend, etc.
However, at that moment, I couldn’t help but notice a group of retired passengers who were very happy, extremely cheerful, and even excited. A lady stood out for her joy within the group. They immediately caught my attention; they seemed like a very close-knit group who had known each other for a long time, maybe from other trips, and were really enjoying this moment together. They laughed, made jokes, and took photos. I thought how nice it is to reach that age and be in good physical and mental condition.
The Arrayanes Forest
First Stop, the Arrayanes Forest
After 30 minutes of navigation, we were arriving at our first stop: the Arrayanes Forest, in the southern part of the Quetrihué Peninsula. Here, we found a forest with unique characteristics in the world, as it is the only habitat where the species takes tree form and the only place where it grows in forest formation. The forest covers an area of 1,000 hectares, was declared a National Park by law in 1980, and is connected to the mainland by a small isthmus, where the picturesque town of Villa Angostura is located. Upon arrival, we were told we would walk a trail about 600 meters long with recommendations not to break or take branches as souvenirs, to preserve this site protected as Los Arrayanes National Park, which is within Nahuel Huapi National Park.
There, we found the so-called Walt Disney’s little house, which is actually a small cabin for buying gifts or souvenirs. The guides, always ready to answer questions, gave us very valuable information on various topics, such as vegetation, flora, the history of the places we visited, customs, and who were their inhabitants. Thus, we learned that the Arrayán, whose name comes from the Mapuche language “quetrihue,” is actually a shrub with exquisite saffron-colored bark and white flowers. In this unique place, they grew to the size of trees, forming this magical and unusual forest with centenary specimens with wide trunks. The striking bark of this tree is cold, smooth, and cinnamon-colored with white spots, reaching heights over 15 meters. It has white flowers similar to orange blossoms and violet-colored fruits with a pleasant taste.
Unsettling Experience in Victoria Island
We then re-boarded the boat for Puerto Anchorena on Victoria Island, while the guides explained everything we were about to see and the various options available on the island, without even imagining that we were about to experience an unsettling experience in Victoria Island. We could already see visually attractive flora species, the wooden port, and the paths with numerous tree species such as sequoias, birches, firs, acacias, pines, etc. The port is located in the central and narrowest part of the island and has a service center. There’s also a chairlift to the top of Bella Vista Hill, from where you can enjoy a magnificent view of the city of San Carlos de Bariloche and its surroundings.
At that moment, we were already disembarking, carefully getting off the boat assisted by the crew. One always needs to stretch the step to step onto the port, and some elderly people need help. We were standing on the wooden planks of the port, gathered around a very friendly guide who explained that each visitor is free to choose their own route, selecting between various guided or self-guided walks on the marked trails on the island. It was at this moment, while we were fully attentive to the guide’s description and considering the different options, that we heard a very loud noise, like a sudden thud on the wooden planks. We didn’t quite understand what was happening until we saw a group of people crowding around. Someone had collapsed! It was the cheerful lady from the group of retirees who had caught my attention earlier.
Amid the commotion caused by the sound of her head hitting the ground, we all stepped back to give space to the boat and National Park staff to perform first aid. We saw that she wasn’t getting up, and they had to call for emergency personnel. Those minutes felt endless; we were all in shock from the situation. Our guide continued her explanation very professionally, but no one was smiling or cheerful like before. All we wanted was for the lady to recover. I couldn’t see her closely, but I was told her face was flushed, and she apparently had a heart attack. Eventually, an emergency boat arrived to take her urgently, and we didn’t learn anything more for the rest of the excursion.
The tour continued for the rest of the passengers, and I must confess that every corner of the island, with its wonderful landscapes, millennial history, and striking natural environment, provides an experience to be fully enjoyed. There’s much to choose from and explore, with highlights including the cave paintings and Playa del Toro, the trail of the Ex Vivero Nacional, the “Antonio Pargade” Interpretation Trail, Puerto Gross, and the old settlement. In summer, you can also swim in the waters of Playa del Toro, where you can see the cave paintings made by the indigenous peoples who inhabited this area, in the stunning setting of a beach with volcanic sand. You can also take the chairlift to Bella Vista Hill, 900 meters high, surrounded by splendid native cypresses and centuries-old coihues. To recharge your energy, you can stop at the island’s café, where every visitor is excellently welcomed and served.
Thus, our excursion concluded, and we boarded the boat again to return to Puerto Pañuelo.
As fate would have it, on our way back to the hotel, we stopped at a supermarket to buy some things we needed. My mom met a lady who was in the group of retirees and had chatted with her during the excursion. That’s how we found out that the lady had indeed suffered a heart attack and, unfortunately, had passed away. Despite the sad memory, and the unsettling experience in Victoria Island. I can’t help but think that the lady spent her last hours in extreme happiness, surrounded by loved ones in a dreamlike landscape, and perhaps, it is a good way to go.
